Strandline - secrets of the seashore
How waves work
Waves form when wind and sea interact. The diagram shows this happening - the wind direction is shown as a red arrow. The wind actually transfers some of its energy into the sea. The sea is able to gain energy from the wind because of the friction between the wind and the water. The energy causes the sea to move in vertical circular motions. The circular movements get smaller deeper down. When waves meet shallow coastal waters, the waves break. This is because the depth of the sea floor is less than the region of circular movement within the sea water. Biological and non-biological materials are thrown on to the beach by wave swash, and then dragged back by the retreating wave backswash.
