| Saint
Lewinna's Bones
The story goes
that Saint Lewinna's bones (some of them) with their miraculous
healing powers lie beneath the altar of St Andrew's church
near the Sussex coast. But which St Andrew's? There's a St
Andrew's at Alfriston, another at Jevington and yet another
at Bishopstone. (There are so many St Andrew's because he
is the patron saint of fishing and all these villages have
connections with the sea and fishing.) All these churches
have histories reaching back into Saxon times - the period
when St Lewinna is supposed to have lived. The story of her
bones was written down in the Middle Ages by the monk Drogo
and this is my telling of it, taken from Drogo's version
Lewinna lived somewhere
near the coast of Sussex during the reign of the Saxon king
Egbert who died in 674. She was probably one of the first
converts to the new religion brought to Sussex by St Wilfrid.
Sussex remained Pagan long after many other parts of these
islands had adopted Christianity and there are many stories
of St Wilfrid's efforts to bring these heathens into the fold.
It seems that Lewinna's devotion to this new God offended
her neighbours and she was killed - a martyr for her faith,
perhaps a virgin martyr, a condition of highest honour in
those early days of the church. From the moment of her death
her body and the casket in which it was laid had miraculous
healing powers. Monks took care of her remains in their wooden
church building and they made parchment scrolls recording
the stories of the illnesses and injuries that had been healed
and cured by people just touching the casket.
Years passed. Lewinna
was declared a saint in honour of her willingness to die for
her faith and it was recognised that her bones in their casket
were a holy relic of great importance. The monks continued
to record miracles of healing.
Around 1040 a Benedictine
monk of Bergues in Flanders was travelling by ship to Britain
in search of holy relics. He felt that his monastery would
be a fitting resting place for these holy objects, and that
to have them would bring more honour and renown (and money?)
to his monastery. Balgerus appears to have been a dedicated
relic hunter.
The ship he was
in was caught in a gale in the English Channel and driven
in the high winds past the port it was aiming for. The sailors
and passengers feared for their lives in that stormy sea and
were glad to find safety in the harbour at Seaford. There
they rested to wait out the storm. Most of those on board
stayed on the boat. They were uncertain of the temper of the
Seaford folk - it wasn't their usual port of call and the
Sussex folk were known for ruthlessness with regard to strangers
and shipwrecks on their shores.
But Balgerus wanted
to go ashore because it was Easter and he was obliged to celebrate
Mass. He took one companion, a servant boy, and they took
a small boat and rowed themselves to land. Once ashore Balgerus
looked for someone to tell him where he could hear Mass, but
it was early in the morning and there was hardly anyone about.
Eventually he heard that there was a minster church nearby.
(A minster is a church attached to a monastery). He was told
it was a walk that would take an hour or so.
He set off but
on the way felt faint and had to rest at the side of the path.
He would have been fasting because of the Easter Observances
and so maybe, not unnaturally, his strength failed him. An
old man approached Balgerus and asked the monk, in Latin,
where he was going. When Balgerus told him the old man said,
"Be of good courage then, because when you come to the
church of St Andrew you will find healing for all your weakness
and ailments. The bones of Saint Lewinna lie in a casket there
and you will be able to read about their miraculous powers
if you look at the scrolls on the walls of the church."
When Balgerus heard this, he revived and felt strong enough
to continue. The old man disappeared quickly from view and
afterwards Balgerus wondered whether he had been real or some
holy vision guiding the seeker to the relics he sought.
At the church Balgerus
heard Mass and then looked around. He saw the scrolls and
read about the miraculous powers of the bones. Then he saw
the casket which must be the one with the bones inside. He
felt the lid - it was loose! He opened it just far enough
to see the red cloth that wrapped the holy bones of the saint.
Balgerus was greatly excited. He felt sure that these bones
should have pride of place in his rich and famous monastery,
not be hidden away in this remote settlement where only a
few people would ever make their way to find them.
He approached the
priest and asked if he could buy the bones.
The priest was
outraged by such an offer. How dare this presumptuous foreigner
insult him and his church so! The priest responded with a
vehement refusal. Balgerus quickly backtracked. He'd only
been making a joke. Of course he wouldn't presume to make
such an insulting and unholy offer. The priest should forgive
his clumsy attempt at humour. And then Balgerus asked if he
could keep an Easter vigil - staying in the church to pray.
The priest accepted
the apologies and, without enthusiasm, agreed that Balgerus
as a Christian monk had every right to stay and pray in the
church for as long as he wanted.
Balgerus stayed
and prayed
.and stayed
..and prayed
.and stayed
.
through the night. He prayed and chanted until the doorkeeper
went home and left him to it. When he was at last alone in
the church, Balgerus approached the casket again and tried
to lift the lid. This time it wouldn't budge.
He went back to
ever more fervent praying. He addressed his pleas directly
to Saint Lewinna,
"If you will allow yourself to be moved to where you
will receive far greater honour than is possible here, I will
be your devoted servant for ever," he promised fervently.
He went back to the casket and tried the lid. It lifted up
easily now, and high with excitement, prayer and fasting,
Balgerus set about stealing the bones. He wrapped them in
a cloth he had with him and carried them to where he'd put
his bag. There was a clatter on the floor behind him which
made him jump nervously and nearly drop his precious bundle.
He looked down in the dim candle-light and saw that some bones
had fallen from the bundle. He noticed that they were finger
bones. He picked them up, re-wrapped the bundle, and went
on his way. Another clatter. The same finger bones were on
the floor. Once more, he picked them up and carried on towards
the door. When the finger bones fell a third time from the
now tightly wrapped bundle, Balgerus realised that maybe Saint
Lewinna was trying to communicate.
He put his bundle
down, picked up the finger bones and returned them to the
red cloth inside the casket. He understood that the saint
was determined that some of her remains should remain in St
Andrew's.
After this Balgerus
had no further problems putting the precious bundle into his
own bag. When the bones were safely stowed away it was already
early morning. Balgerus woke the servant lad who'd slept soundly
throughout the proceedings, and they set off back to Seaford
harbour. But Balgerus was very nervous about being discovered,
and to throw off suspicion, he decided not to board the ship
immediately but to stay visible in the town - as a monk with
a clear conscience might do. He sent the bag with the bones
aboard ship with the servant. He said he would stay ashore
to buy fresh fish for the crew and would come aboard later
in the day.
But the captain
decided to sail from the harbour immediately. It was high
tide and the winds were good - it was an opportunity not to
be missed. Balgerus could rejoin the ship later from further
down the coast. So Balgerus was left ashore - the story doesn't
say whether he'd already bought the fish or not at this point.
It seems that the next day, further misfortune hit Balgerus'
plans in the form of a gale blowing again and the sea soon
becoming too rough for a small boat to take the monk for his
rendezvous with the ship. Balgerus was stranded but no-one
seems to have suspected his crime.
That night on board
the ship the sailors were again anxious for their safety.
The winds and waves seemed to be attacking the ship and all
feared that they must be destroyed. Balgerus' servant had
told them what was in the bag he'd brought aboard for his
master, because the monk had insisted that this cargo be recognised
and treated as precious and holy. Some of the sailors began
to murmur about it bringing bad luck. Maybe the saint was
angry and she would wreck the ship for revenge. They should
throw the bag and its bones overboard. But others said no,
it was a natural storm and their best protection would be
to keep the holy saint's relics aboard for the protection
they would bring. The saint would surely not want her bones
to lie at the bottom of the sea where no-one could come and
honour them.
This argument was
persuasive and the bones were kept aboard. The ship rode out
the storm and continued on its way. But there were merchants
and others aboard who'd lost valuable time already with the
storms and delays and they weren't prepared to wait for a
monk to be picked up when the weather allowed. Balgerus was
left behind. When, some weeks later, the ship arrived back
in its home port in Flanders the steersman offered to look
after the bag. He gave it to his wife for safe-keeping.
Meanwhile Balgerus
had to find a ship to bring him home, then trace what had
happened to his bag and then find his way to the house of
the steersman and his wife. When he finally managed this,
the indefatigable relic hunter was astonished to find that
the good woman had become so attached to the holy relics herself
that she was reluctant to return them. Balgerus could hardly
claim that he was the rightful owner. In the end, he had to
part with a considerable sum of his monastery's gold in order
to recover the bag.
So, imagine Balgerus
at last walking triumphantly towards his home monastery in
Bergues proudly carrying his precious booty. He sent messengers
ahead with the good news and a procession came to meet and
welcome Saint Lewinna's bones to their new resting place.
Procession it seems was ten parts of the law. Balgerus was
rewarded with celebration and acclaim for his theft. The bones
were ceremoniously washed in holy water and placed in a casket
decorated with silver and gold. There they remained for 500
years and it is said that they gave many miraculous healings
to the people who came (and paid) to touch and honour them.
In 1522 the monastery
was destroyed during the religious battles of the Reformation
and apparently only one rib bone of Saint Lewinna survived.
This was preserved in a silk bag until 1791 but then the Abbey
was completely destroyed and the last relic of Sussex's Saxon
saint was lost for many years. It was rediscovered in 1905
in a little wooden box in St Martin's church where it can
be seen to this day in St Roch's chapel in the church which
is the parish church of Bergues.
But the story
doesn't tell us where exactly are the finger bones that were
left behind in Sussex.
St Andrew's
of Bishopstone has a strong claim - it was a minster church
and it is close to where the harbour of Seaford used to be.
But perhaps too close. The sea came right up to the village
in those days, so it would have been no distance to the church
whereas the story says that Balgerus had to walk for an hour
- long enough to become exhausted.
Then there's
St Andrew's at Alfriston. Its claims rest on the argument
that Balgerus' boat sheltered in Cuckmere Haven, not Seaford
- that the teller of the tale got the name wrong. It was a
mistake that could easily have been made in the days when
there were no signposts. And the description of the harbour
where the boat sheltered, some people say, matches better
with how Cuckmere Haven would have looked then. Also, there
is a Saxon stone carving in a prominent position in the Alfriston
church depicting a woman with a deep wound on her head which
is traditionally said to be St Lewinna, the wound showing
her martyrdom.
And what about
Jevington's claim? It's certainly a Saxon church, dedicated
to St Andrew and there is evidence of other buildings which
might have been a small monastery in the field nearest the
church. But it's a long walk from Seaford - or Cuckmere Haven
- and Balgerus would have had to walk past other churches
to get there.
I've told St
Lewinna's story outside each of the three churches in question
but have not experienced a sign suggesting that one is the
true resting place, The three churches that claim them are
all well worth visiting and maybe one day Saint Lewinna will
find a way to reveal the presence of her earthly remains -
who knows

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