| Berwick
church suffered bomb damage during the second
World War - its stained glass was mostly destroyed.
Clear glass replaced it, giving the church a light
and open atmosphere. Then Bishop Bell of Chichester
commissioned wall paintings from local "Bloomsbury
Group" artists Duncan Grant, Vanessa Bell
and members of their family. The Bishop wanted
churches to be alive to the creativity of the
times rather than being static monuments. There
was a good deal of controversy at the time partly
because it was an unusual commission and partly
because the artists did not present exact versions
of what they were going to do in advance. The
paintings were dedicated on October 10th 1943. |
|
 |
Berwick to Alfriston circular
This walk can be done in 3 - 4 hours if you take
the short route described but if you do that you will
miss the delights of Alfriston*, a picturesque village
now but one with a hidden history of crime and civil
unrest. There are difficult choices to be made about
where to take refreshments as so many enticing possibilities
present themselves.
From Berwick Station* the walk leads through the
first of four villages - Selmeston* (where a short
detour takes you to Silletts Cottage Restaurant whose
cream teas are stunning…) each of which has a
church built on a mound suggesting that their sites
were chosen because the place was traditionally used
for pre-Christian religious practices. Alciston* is
the next, with its fine church, farm and massive tithe
barn. Then it's up to the top of the Downs which have
been coming closer since the start. Beside the path
up the north slope the chalk grassland is unimproved
and there are wild flowers through all the seasons
though I think April to June is probably the richest
time with violets, primroses, cowslips and orchids.
From the top, the views are stunning and so too can
the wind and weather be - if you find yourself up
here when there's a storm carrying rain or hail you'll
be glad the route doesn't lead you to walk into the
wind - which usually blows from the west or south
west.
Alfriston comes next, beside the winding Cuckmere
river, with its magnificent inns and tea shops, its
church known as the Cathedral of the Downs, and the
Clergy House beside it which was the first property
bought by the National Trust (for £10). Look
out for the long-eared owl who lives in the house
opposite the Star Inn on Star Lane - it's often perched
in the trees or on the wall of the garden there, staring
unblinking at the passers-by. There's also a village
museum that's worth visiting - just above a sweet
shop in the High Street.
The route leaves the village from the riverside path
and goes up a lane* that soon becomes the section
of the Vanguard Way that leads to Berwick church.
This church is much visited because of its wall paintings
done by the Bloomsbury artists Duncan Grant, Vanessa
Bell and Quentin Bell in the 1940's. The church is
very clearly built on a mound, and its dedication
to St Michael and All Angels suggests that there were
such Pagan associations attached to the site that
all the angelic powers were needed.
From here, the route passes the Cricketers Pub, another
favourite stopping place.
There's a pub and a village shop at the beginning
of this walk and more on the way, including many interesting
possibilities in Alfriston.
|
